SPRING SUMMER 2008 |
May 11, 2008 |
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Spring 2001 - Foot Soldier's Conquest |
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 Dolce
& Gabbana set the tone for the Conquest Themes of Spring 2001, with their
micro shorts and sexy, open chest jackets. The longer the legs the more
territory they cover and D&G's models cover plenty of ground. This theme
honors the modern fashion solder's long foot journey from 40s bee-bop to
constructivism, and seeks to make peace with the graceful peasantry.
 Dolce
& Gabbana's ongoing association with pop star Madonna highlights this
journey, as Madonna has transformed her own career from punkish street girl
to material princess and finally to legitimate cinema actress.
As with so many of contemporary culture's icons, Madonna's and D&G's
staying power is a product of crossover artistic appeal, from music to fashion
to Hollywood.
For Spring 2001, Dolce & Gabbana present a variety of sizzling designs
that conquer the wearer's vanity and the soldier's heart; first, a racer's
Italian red, yellow, black, and white cycle jacket, next a studded cream
pirate's vest with frills, and then series of halter black micro dresses
with studded appliqués around the hip. The looks are streetwear savvy
with a touch of decoration and flash. more....
(See the Dolce & Gabbana Fashion Sketches™ - Click
Here.) |
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 The
interesting aspect of Spring 2001's take on Conquest is the delicate treatment
of peasant grace. Perhaps the international coverage of Balkan refugees
has set designers to thinking about the relationship between warriors and
their citizenry. Véronique Branquinho presents a series of plebian
skirts and dresses in white, gray, and light sky blue with crisscrossing
bodice and pleated fronts.
 A.F.
Vandevost shows structured tops and pleated skirts in watercolor tones and
mocha. Walking purposefully through the streets of European plazas, the
wearer merges with the stucco and granite facades and as much defines the
metropolis as occupies it.
Ruffo Research offers a slightly more servantile interpretation with moss
green leather skirts and taupe cowl turtlenecks and oversized pants. Ruffo
also uses crepe-soft suede to introduce wearable styles in slashed necklines
and jersey sleeves that will show up throughout Fall 2001 collections.
Celine of Paris is more literal - military jackets with epaulets, and hip-length
jersey styles in forest and tan colors with oversized square pockets and
metal buttons. Components of Conquest, yes, but there is a notable absence
of officer's bars and stripes. Commadante's belts wrap around camouflage
one-piece swimsuits (Dior) and thigh-length wool skirts, while khaki and
bone cotton field jackets (Anne Klein) provide cover.
Finally, Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti presents a minimalist wardrobe of
wheat and ruby bandeaus and cropped skirts that can be mixed and matched
for the funky formal occasion; they're bare, understated, and go well with
studded sandals. Just be sure to get a soldier's jacket to avoid over exposure.
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